I truly believe Yellowstone is the best National Park, BUT, it is NOT a “drive-thru” park. In fact, the scenery isn’t the reason to go. If you just want scenery, I definitely recommend the Grand Tetons instead. We have always done both during the times we’ve been. However, the post is not going to cover the Tetons. That comes later.
I see a lot of posts out there that do both and so you might be wondering why I’m leaving it out. Here’s the deal: I really want to cover a Yellowstone National Park Itinerary, so all my focus is going to be there, and how many days to spend there. I’m also answering a few other questions I’ve gotten since being back. That being said, we have a lot to cover, so let’s dive right in.
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The 8 Areas for Your Yellowstone National Park Itinerary
Before we actually get to how many days to put on your Yellowstone National Park Itinerary you need understand how it’s laid out and the 8 main areas, so here we go. I’m starting from the top and going clock-wise around the map. The roads also make a figure eight so it just works.
Top Tip:
Download the audio guide to Yellowstone to your phone.
It’s a very drivable park but if it’s your first time, this will help immensely.
1. Mammoth Hot Springs
If you’re coming into the park from Montana at Roosevelt Arch then this is probably the first area you’ll come to. It’s definitely a “can’t miss” place for your Yellowstone National Park Itinerary. The whole area takes about 2.5-3 hours to explore, and I can recommend all of it if you’ve never been. My parents didn’t do this whole area with us because they’ve seen it all before but my husband and I did and it’s well worth it. Plus, you go up a hill a bit and get a good view of the town as well. There are driving spots to get out as well but you certainly want to do the walking, it’s worth it.
2. Tower-Roosevelt
The Tower-Roosevelt area does not have the geysers and hot springs, but this is the area you want to get to if you want to see wolves. The road from Tower out of the park is where the wolf packs are located. Get there early (before day break) and then again in the late afternoon until it’s dark. There is a petrified tree in this area if that entices you. I saw it as a kid and wasn’t impressed but you might be, if that’s your thing.
3. Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Before we get to the Canyon, it’s worth noting that the road from Tower to Canyon is currently closed. This is a nice area as well with a couple of good hikes. When we were there, we couldn’t get to this area (had to go around to get to the wolves), so be sure to check road closures before you go. It is a pretty drive if it’s open and you can hike up Mount Washburn which has a great view on a clear day.
That being said, I’m still going to go in this order for the sake of ease. Now Canyon is a great area. The waterfall is amazing, it’s less crowded, there’s the upper falls and lower falls and plenty of hiking to get to them.
We spent half a day exploring nothing but Canyon and we saw a vast majority of it and what I would tell anyone to see on their first trip. You can either drive both sides of the canyon or hike them.
Obviously, hiking takes longer. We drove it because even without walking either of the rims, it’s a lot of walking to do. Don’t miss these little hikes:
- Brink of Upper Falls
- Upper Falls Viewpoint
- Upper Tom’s Trail (closed during Covid)
- Artist Point
- Brink of Lower Falls
- Red Rock Point
- Lookout Point
- Grand View
- Inspiration Point
If you do each of those small hikes, you will see a vast majority of the canyon, it will take about half a day if you’re quick, and a full day if you meander (have kids or are elderly). There are maps at each location that will have all the lookouts and trail possibilities. Grab one of those everywhere you go for a $1 donation.
4. Lake Village + Fishing Bridge
There’s not loads to do at Lake Village or Fishing Bridge but both are worth at least a visit. There’s a couple of good gift shops if you’re so inclined and the Lake is beautiful. I do recommend walking around the lake in the early morning or evening.
5. West Thumb
West Thumb is another area that’s a favorite of mine and why it’s on my itineraries below. It buts up to the Lake which makes for some pretty epic photos. We did this area right at golden area and it was amazing. The colors are beautiful and it’s not a huge area, but certainly worth it. I recommend spending about 2 hours in this area for sure.
6. Old Faithful
Well, yes, Old Faithful I’m sure you’ve heard of. You’ll definitely want to see but, but keep in mind, there’s a lot of other geysers, hot springs, and other things to see in this area. On your way to Old Faithful or on your way out depending on which direction you want to go, you’ll also see the Grand Prismatic Springs. As well as other geyser basins that are worth a visit.
In the Old Faithful area, I definitely recommend doing the walk over to Morning Glory Pool. This is 2.8 miles round trip from Old Faithful. It will also take you by other geysers, pools, hot springs, and more.
My husband and I also hiked the Fairy Falls Trail which is an easy hike to a lovely waterfall and if you have the time, I definitely recommend it. You go right by the hike to get the full view of the Grand Prismatic Hot Spring.
After leaving Old Faithful and on your way to Madison (if you’re following the clockwise direction I’m going) then you’ll come upon the Grand Prismatic Springs area. You don’t want to miss this one either. Be sure to take the hike up to get the view of the entire area.
7. Madison
There’s not really anything to see in the Madison area. However, if you drive the road out of the park from Madison, there tends to be a lot of Elk. Of course, they move, so this might now always be the case. It’s good to check this road though if you have the time.
8. Norris
Norris is probably one of my least favorite areas of Yellowstone, it’s why you can skip it if you are short on time. I do recommend it if you’ve never been to Yellowstone. It has a lot of geysers and springs. It’s certainly worth a visit if you have the time, it’s just not the best area.
One More Recommendation
Now, for some of you, this last recommendation might seem a little morbid, but I’m adding it anyway. I truly believe you should read this book about Deaths in Yellowstone before going. You may be thinking “Wait, what?! You’re sick!” but really, trust me. See, there was a time when people didn’t know what this park was about, before we even had roads, and as you can imagine, that caused a lot of drama. No railings or walkways and one mis-step and you landed in a 150 degree geyser and fried within minutes. I’m not exaggerating.
Yellowstone is a dangerous place. People used to feed bears, put their children on bison for a photo, and more. What’s worse, these things still happen. I know it’s tempting to reach over the boardwalk to see what the water feels like. And while it’s not usually that hot right near the boardwalk, it could be. I’m usually a hop off the trail, climb over railings sort of person (within reason), but in Yellowstone, I will not do it. The entire thing is a volcano. However, I do get the urge to do things like this, which is why I read the book, and you should too.
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